The Farnes are a group of islands off the Northumberland mainland, within sight of Lindisfarne (Holy Island) and Bamburgh Castle and one of the country’s most significant nature reserves – home to colonies of seals, and a breeding place for huge number of seabirds.

The exact number of islands varies between 15 and 20 depending on the state of the tide. The rock they were formed from emerged from below the earth’s crust almost 300 million years ago when tectonic movements resulted in massive flows of magma. At the time this was part of the mainland, but erosion and rising sea levels have stranded them offshore, clustered in two groups: the Inner Farnes are around 1½ miles from the coast and the Outer Farnes about 3 miles further out.

 

The islands are now uninhabited apart from five or so volunteers for 9 months per year who work for the National Trust (which owns the Farnes) but these islands have had some rather distinguished inhabitants in the past.

The earliest recorded settlers were Culdees – monks and hermits. The first of those whose name is known was St Aidan who lived on the island of Inner Farne. He was followed by St Cuthbert in 676, who died on the island in 687. St Aethelwold of Farne then followed in Cuthbert’s footsteps and he too died on the island in 699. St Cuthbert is noted for (amongst other things) creating the first known bird protection laws in the world when he issued an edict to prevent the killing of the island’s eider ducks.

 

In Elizabethan times a pele (or peel) tower was built – this was a fortified tower which was garrisoned with a small number of soldiers in case of invasion by the French. Later, during the reign of Charles II, the tower was used as a primitive lighthouse with a fire on top of tower as a warning to shipping. A proper lighthouse was erected in 1809 on Inner Farne.

Another lighthouse, on Longstone Island in the Outer Farnes, was built in 1825 and was home to William and Grace Darling. William was the lighthouse keeper in 1838 when the Forfarshire, a paddle steamer, foundered on Big Harcar, another of the Outer Farnes, and William and his daughter Grace rescued nine passengers by rowing their coble (a rowing boat designed to be crewed by 4 people) through nearly a mile of heavy seas. The Darlings were rightly hailed as heroes and were showered with awards, including the newly inaugurated RNLI’s Silver Medal. Grace was only 22 at the time, and sadly died of tuberculosis just four years later at the age of 26.

As well as being home to several lighthouses (all unmanned now) the Farnes are home to colonies of grey seals and huge numbers of shoreline birds and seabirds – many of which travel thousands of miles to breed on one or other of the islands. And it’s the wildlife which makes a trip out to the Farnes and essential element of any visit to the Northumberland coast.

Visitors can take a sea trip aboard one of the many boats that sail from the nearby fishing village of Seahouses. Some of these trips include landing on of several of the Farnes where, depending on the time of year, it is possible to get close up pictures of shags, cormorants, guillemots, kittiwakes, razorbills, eider ducks, oyster catchers, ringed plover, rock pipits, fulmar, herring gulls, black-backed gulls, terns and everyone’s favourite, the puffins that make their burrows on the islands.

 

Trips are subject to weather conditions and landings are always at the Captain’s discretion, but are well worthwhile – but wear a hat if you do as the terns lay their eggs near the paths and will swoop on anyone who gets too near, lightly pecking the head or leaving a parting gift as they pull out of a dive. Whilst the most popular time is the breeding season – usually May/June – some of the operators run winter trips for keen birdwatchers to observe the different species that are around then. October is another special time as it’s when the seal pups are born. Seals are very friendly and inquisitive creatures so will swim close to a boat to give its occupants a once-over. One operator includes a guided tour around the Longstone Lighthouse where Grace Darling lived.

 

Occasionally other sea mammals – dolphins, humpback whales, minke whales and orca (killer whales) – and also basking sharks are spotted.

The Farnes are a great place for scuba diving – as well as plenty of wildlife to observe there are the remains of numerous wrecked ships to explore, including parts of the Forfarshire. Snorkelling, canoeing and kayaking are also popular activities.

Boat trips:

A highlight of any visit to the area is a boat trip to the Farne Islands out of Seahouses. Some of these trips involve landing on one or more of several of the islands – others are “sail arounds” which don’t involve landing.

Inner Farne – landing fee (National Trust members free)

Longstone Island – no landing fee

Staple Island – landing fee (National Trust members free)

There are four companies currently operating out of Seahouses Harbour which provide trips out to the Farnes.

Glad Tidings – www.farne-islands.co.uk

Golden Gate – www.farneislandsboattrips.co.uk

Serenity – www.farneislandstours.co.uk

St Cuthbert Farne Islands Boat Trips – www.farneislands.co.uk

Interesting fact: Inner Farne has its own chapel. It’s very small and is very ancient (it is believed to date back to around 1300). The current building is built on the remains of an even earlier edifice (probably circa 12^th century).

 

Tags: culdees, farne islands, farne islands boat trips, farne islands puffin, farnes, inner farne, kittiwakes, longstone island, northumberland, northumberland coast, outer farnes, puffin, st aethelwold of farne

This entry was posted on Friday, June 3rd, 2011 at 2:43 pm and is filed under Visitor Review. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.